the other day i was supposed to go with my host organization to a neighboring city, but they canceled on me at the last minute. as a result, i had a whole day of nothingness ahead of me. or so i thought. in pc azerbaijan, you end up working even when you think you can get away with hiding in your apartment all day long.
during the morning i was sitting in my pjs when one of my work colleagues decided to ask me a question via skype chat. he said, "i am chattin in chatroom with girl. girl asked me if i am hot. in azeri hot means isti. is she asking about room temperature?" well, this colleague of mine is an older married man with children...so this is a slightly uncomfortable subject for me to explain, but i explained it none the less. to me, this qualifies as "work".
next, i'm still at home in my pjs. i should mention i ran the day earlier but failed to shower. as a result i was looking particularly classy. my neighbors decided to come over for a surprise visit. i had just returned from india and my stuff was everywhere, but i could not turn away my neighbors. Consequently, two older women and two children came into my apartment. the women immediately describe their concern over an assumed inability to cook on my part. meanwhile, the kids are running around my apartment looking through EVERYTHING i own. everything. to destract them all i decided to entertain them with pictures from india. this worked out rather well, but the daughter (who is actually very sweet and bright) kept coming up to me and asking me to explain everything in my apt. eventually, she picks up a tampon and asks me what it is. i know this subject is taboo in azerbaijan, so i look to the mother to explain. surprisingly, the mother is also confused.
the mother asks "tampon" (same word)? i say "yes". Then she asks something like: "what is this for?" or "how do you use it?" Ummmm, i'm not sure about the language for this so i say..."when blood comes" or something of the sort. finally, we get to the heart of the matter: how could I, an unmarried woman, use a tampon? After all, it might break my hymen and if my hymen gets broken before marriage, then maybe i will never find a man to marry me. In fact, this same fear drives many women to avoid playing sports: fear of breaking the hymen. Furthermore, some women take a small razor into the bedroom with them during their first night of sex with their newly wed husband in order to ensure the appearance of a hymen breaking (the cut themselves to create blood).
I tried explaining that in the US women don't worry about this at all. That men don't care if our hymen is broken. Well...this causes the woman to ask me if I am a virgin. Of course I say yes. I cannot trust her not to spread rumors in my community. I do not know her well yet. I also consider this "work".
A couple hours later I am on my way to watch a movie at Laura's place (my sitemate). During my walk I am approached by a different neighbor. We are walking in the same direction for quite some time. As a result we begin discussing religion and religious wars. At least I tried to discuss this. My language only goes so far.
Anyhow, this is just a day in the life. Sometimes it is hard to get across how I work every day...even if I'm not working at all.
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Alexis does bollywood...
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Just kidding. I don't know why, but many many indians wanted their picture taken with lexi and I. the woman to my left in the orange sari started hugging me and i started laughing, so she signaled to her entire family to get into my photograph. MY photograph mind you...they had no camera. Anyways, I love them. The family elder...one of the men with a turban on...tried out his English on me. Made for a short conversation, but what joy!
I loved India. all of it. yes it was dirty. yes it was crowded, but it was fascinating. the colors are inspiring: brightly colored saris anywhere you turn, painted buildings, unabashed love for color everywhere. Indians love to smile and they were always helpful and kind. Then there is the Indian headbob...you gotta see it one day. Yes, people were constantly trying to sell us crap. yes. yes they were. India has 1.17 billion people in it so anything is seemingly true about India. there are poor people, rich people, modern people, traditional people, hindus, buddhists, jains, muslims, christians...everything. there are just a TON OF PEOPLE.
I've never been to a nation so capable of blending the modern with the traditional. Diversity and a sense of expressiveness is at large in India. you walk down a street and see impoverished children trying to catch your eye with a performance, a rich man with a blackberry in the back of a car being driven by one of his servants, a teenager with an mp3 player, red dot third eyes, a fluttering of saris of all colors, jingling bangles, gigantic dogs, and a camel carrying some load of textiles. god only knows...but it is all there at the same time. it is hard to describe.
lexi and i went to 5 cities: New Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Goa, and Mumbai. We flew domestically twice. The airlines were secure and easy to enjoy (unless you are afraid of flying no matter where you are). Actually, the security in India is very high...they have a real problem with domestic terrorists. I was searched every time I entered a larger building. Metal detectors are everywhere.
India is a late night country. Generally places do not open before 10am and markets might stay open until 10pm. In Delhi, Goa, and Mumbai many people don't eat dinner until after 10pm and they stay out until the sun comes up.
All I know is that I want to go back. There is still so much to explore. I encourage everyone to reconsider what they think they know about India.
5. Bombay or Mumbai? The wild city
4. Goa....the laid back beach on the Arabian Sea
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3. Jaipur, Rajasthan
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2. Agra and the Taj Mahal
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